Townsville Proper

Gravel Pit south of Charters Towers

Well here we are in Townsville for the next year. We will use this place as our base to visit Queenslands' best and most beautiful. It only took 2 days to arrive here once we left the beautiful Carnarvon Gorge with 1 overnight stop  south of Charters Towers in yet another gravel pit on the way. Sunset again was stunning (thank you Michael) although waking up to the overwhelming stench of cow poo was a little less exhilarating. The route we took was via Roma, Emerald and Charters Towers. All outback station/mining country with the best beef you have ever tasted  - thank you Maranoa Beef. 

Well Townsville isn't anything like I expected. This is a city and just like any city it has traffic and infrastructure issues. Nestled in the Beautiful Hervey Ranges and banked on the stunning barrier reef  overlooking Magnetic Island this is a city of contrasts. The houses are in turn gorgeous and ugly, roads are incredibly bad and the traffic is non-stop. The natural features are beautiful and the man-made ones a blot on the landscape. It is tropical but has elements of the outback with gum trees and red dirt while the city is over looked by magnificent Castle Hill which is only a few metres off being classed a mountain.People are exceptionally friendly in Queensland, much more so than in other states and the service is excellent whether country or city and that is the most positive thing going for this town. 

On Top of Castle Hill overlooking Townsville and Magnetic Island

We stayed at the Coral Coast Caravan park initially but shifted this weekend to the Bush Oasis Caravan Park in Nome because the noise of traffic, aircraft and trucks was horrible. Getting anywhere in town is a nightmare with all the road upgrades being undertaken. I am hating the commute to work already. Before heading out of town on Saturday we went down to the The Strand a fairly new foreshore development with cafes, restaurants and night markets. It really is Townsvilles' best feature and well used by the locals. I think we will be coming here regularly. 

The Bush Oasis CP is 17 minutes from town and looks over the hills surrounding the city.  It is pretty, quiet and relaxing. Over the road is an animal sanctuary and down the road is a place called Alligator Creek which is attached to the Bowling Green Bay National Park. All absolutely stunning. I will fill you in as we visit each place in detail. The people in charge here are incredibly friendly and willing to do whatever it takes to make us comfortable.

Michael (looking impressed - not) on Castle Hill

We arrived in this park after dating every park within 50km's of the city having picked a beautiful site overlooking a creek on glossy green lawn. Michael drove into the area, carefully backed in and proceeded to unhook before the unthinkable happened - the caravan sank through the grass into a muddy malais. Bloop, bloop!! Whoops, apparently this area is only used by campers and is very (very) wet. Out comes the recovery gear and we reattach before we reassess. We decide to head for the other side of the creek which has hard compacted soil. To get there we must traverse a little bridge and Michael (cyclops) Hodgkins decides he will back over it. He ends up collecting a tree before sheepishly making a lap of the park and coming in forward. Bottom! Oh well, nothing worth having is easy as they say. 

Finally we establish ourselves under a beautiful tree and voila we are home. 

Townsville Express via Carnarvon Gorge National Park

Warrumbungle National Park

The new contract in Townsville gives us just a few weeks to get from our location close to the SA border of NSW to North Queensland. The journey takes us through Cobar in the heart of NSW’ and into the most beautiful National parks. We spent a morning at the Warrumbungles a mountainous conclave with the straightest trees I have ever seen, flanked by perky mountain tops and navigated by winding roads leading the viewer from one lovely scene to another.

From there it was through Narrabri, onto Moree and over the Queensland border via the Carnarvon Highway. Most of the motorway was edged in the most enormous cotton fields. I didn’t know Australia produced that much cotton. There was more cotton than grain which begs the question – where is the food??? 

We made a decision a bit earlier to power our way through to Townsville with just one stop to break the journey.  That stop was to be the Carnarvon Gorge National Park where Michael would celebrate his birthday and we could rest before the short run to our final destination. Good choice us!

Carnavon Gorge National Park is stunning. Glorious mountains interspersed with tropical savannah, creeks running with cool mountain water, magnificent gorges and palm trees hedged the road into the Takarakka Retreat our hosts in this adventure. Once inside the park was an oasis packed with a plethora of animals including Wallabies, Pretty Face and Grey Kangaroos, Kookaburras and other bird life of every sort. Couldn’t do anything but relax and enjoy the atmosphere.

We met a lovely couple next door who put us to shame in the walking arena. Whilst we lazed they went on every walk in the area and then some! On Michaels birthday we booked in for resort, 'fine pig on a spit' dining experience and laughed at the terrible entertainment on offer. Fun all round. 

Carnarvon Gorge National Park

Road into Carnarvon Gorge National Park

Takarakka Resort

Rock Pool

Rock Pool

Warrumbah Creek Gorge

Rock Pool

The Darling River Run

Bone shaking, teeth rattling, red dirt encrusted track and that was just the road in! We left Menindee on a romantic journey called the Darling River Run. We were headed from Menindee to Wilcannia before the long journey north to Queensland via the inland road system. Well that was the plan.  We found an overnight campsite not far down the road on a property called Viewmont where Michael fell in love with the trees and dug his butt firmly into the bowels of the River Darling for what was to be five days of arty exploration. Surrounded by trees, algae invested river and a range of fauna I spent much of my time taking photo’s and looking at short term contracts to boost my flagging brain synapses.

As the paintings began to take form, so did the bees begin to take an interest along with the flies, multiple cows and birds of every type. The local land holder came for a visit and we found that our plans to travel the length of the darling would be thwarted. Apparently just over the main road, 5 caravans had been hauled out as flood waters covered the razor rock road, bursting tires as they went. New plan needed.

The place we were situated on was fascinating. Apparently a young man named Thomas Young died here at this very site in 1920 presumably by taking strychnine. The story goes that the local undertakers ingested a few beverages whilst digging his grave and decided to cut off his head to take back to Menindee for examination and in doing so dropped it in the river. The body was apparently buried without a head.  Eewwwww!!!

Onwards and upwards, a new contract role in North Queensland for me sees us high tailing once again on a road trip through northern NSW to Townsville. 

Menindee

The 100 kms south from Broken Hill to Menindee was exactly how I imagined the Nullabor to look – a flat road with a whole lot of nothing going on. Boring didn’t begin to describe the low scrubby plain that went on for miles and miles. My only thought was “are we there yet?”

Our first real bit of fun was when we left the Copi Hollow Power boat club just a few k’s from our Menindee campsite. We were greeted by the friendliest, smelliest camels I think in Australia. Standing in the middle of the road, teeth bared into the biggest camely smile, our friendly escort decided it wanted to play. Cameras aloft both Michael and I couldn’t resist giving it a scratch despite the loathsomeness of its breath.  Apparently these are camels born and bred in the area and belong to a local who uses them in tourist season.   Tame as tame can be and a real surprise for the passer by.

Down the road we encounter the most amazing sight. The Menindee lake system is incredible. Acting as an overflow plain for the Murray/Darling river dam, it is covered in dead trees and toxic, cloudy waters.  We placed ourselves in a spot that allowed a view over Lake Pamamaroo – talk about an artist’s dream landscape.  Trees seemingly reach for the sky like sentient custodians of an extra-terrestrial world guarding the planet after a post-apocalyptic event.  Michael pulls out his drawing materials to start the process of getting himself back into professional mode more inspired by the trees than ever.

We stayed in this visually stimulating place for a week drawing, writing and generally observing the amazing lakescape.  Sunsets and sunrises starred here and a fire capped off the evenings’ entertainment throughout our stay. On our way out we stopped at the Menindee dam and found about 50 pelicans waiting with heads down for fish to run into the overflow.

Pelicans at Menindee Dam

SA to Broken Hill

Our decision to high tail it east has come with some regrets as we traversed the breadth of SA straight to the NSW border. The country is magnificent. One minute it’s quintessential outback and the next rolling hills and paddocks. The Richi Richi pass just out of Port Augusta saw us ramble through picturesque hills and valleys with the most gorgeous little towns like Peterborough to mark our passage.  

Towards the evening I guide us to a fabulous camping site called Olary Creek. The dirt is red loam made deeper as the sun sets on the horizon. The evening is rainy but the panorama is pure joy. The inner artist fires her volley and the camera is a blur as the day turns to night.  

Olary Creek

Next day we padded our way into Broken Hill. I had read on some of the travel forums that caravanners were robbed constantly as they stayed in the local parks. Thinking that maybe this had been overstated we arrived to find that our next door neighbours had been robbed the day before. We then made security a major priority although our reason for coming to town was much more esoteric.

Broken Hill is one of Australias major realist Landscape Art centres and Michael was on a mission to visit as many of the 30 odd local galleries in this small town as possible. Pro Hart’s gallery was my favourite and very inspiring although a visit to local artist Howard Steer’s place showed just how diverse the talent in this area could be. I wasn’t a big fan of the town itself. It felt oppressive to me and I was glad to leave after a couple of days. With Michael satiated in arty inspiration we left for for our next adventure. 

Nullabor Surprise

The Nullabor is a surprise. I thought it would be incredibly boring – a feat to be endured or a marathon to run. The fact is the landscape is incredible, lovely trees and shrubs interspersed with craggy cliffs with absolutely no barriers between you and a plunging wall of death. I was imagining a Thelma and Louise scenario as we camped off one of the many cliff side tracks. As we drove towards the edge we came to the realisation that there was actually nothing beneath us but a layer of limestone. A little investigation showed that the weather had carved a massive hanger under the rock face. We hastily bid our retreat with our 3 ½ tonne rig back a little further towards the road.  From Belladonia ( of Skylab fame)to the SA border and beyond I can’t say I was ever bored although a little saddle sore from the constant travel.

Nullabor Coastline - The Thelma and Louise experience

Just before Ceduna we stayed at a place called Iron Knob. Just thought I would mention it just because the country was so incredibly scenic. Beyond that we had a brief look at Ceduna before heading ever onwards to the incredibly distant east.

Iron Knob

Chilly Chilly!

The Stirlings behind us we head for Esperance. The sting of winter is in the air, winds gusting icily off the shoreline as we meander along the winding coastal roads. Miles and miles of scenic beauty hug the coast, islands, bleak rocks and waves crashing together with a lilting cohesion.  We make the decision to head for the east before winter truly sets its path and return when the weather gods smile on this incredible landscape. 

Esperance Shoreline

The choice made our inner pigeon heads towards Norseman while the Nullabor beckons and we begin the first of 7 full days on the road. As night falls Michaels free camping nose leads us to a gravel dump 40Kms south of Norseman.  He has an instinct for finding these incredible vistas that invariably summon my inner artist from its' burgeoning cocoon. I was mesmerised by the cloud formations reflected in the muddy puddles.

The light is falling and my eyes droop as the day ekes away. I reflect on the importance of taking every moment and wringing the most from its' sometimes grimy hands and feel thankful that even in the most barron of landscapes you can enjoy such incredible beauty. 

Trip to the Mountains

Stirling Ranges

Mount Barker:The Caravan Park Nazi – No water for you!

Caravan Parks have their own breed of owner, manager/person working within. They can either be pleasant, helpful and relatively easy to get along with or like at Mt Barker, have  ‘Caravan Park Nazi’ written all over their white,  screwed up little foreheads. This one was just such a beast. Although not horned (they may have been hidden) it became very obvious, very soon that the rules were coming on thick and fast. Have to use the parks washing machines, have to use the park ablution blocks and not our own perfectly good appliances, can’t wash car or caravan, must park van xxx amount of millimetres on the pad and go in from the left not the right, must park car in certain position etc.. etc.. All for the fabulous price of $37 a night plus another $24 for the washing machines and dryers because it was raining and a concrete pad situated on dry bare dirt. No wonder there was only 5 other caravans there. It was also clear that the big attack dog behind the counter may have been the for owners protection and not just for companionship. The town itself was also little underwhelming and as Anzac day approached we decided to head for the hills literally.

Stirling Ranges and the Porongorups

Road into the Stirling Ranges

Now here is where it gets interesting. What fabulous country and so close to Perth I feel ashamed not to have been aware of my doorsteps natural beauty. Think dusty outback red road meets, Yellowstone Park - all ruggedy and awe inspiring. The weather is cool to cold with a hint of rain in the air. We are at staying at Stirling Range Retreat as yet again free camping is not allowed in the area and have been informed that rain in imminent. That they need it badly goes without saying. The road in from Mt Barker is corrugated and we are glad of our Jeeps suspension.

View from Stirling Range Eco Retreat

This eco- camp is a lovely outback surprise, well maintained with friendly staff, a welcome change after Mt Barker and inexpensive considering its’ remoteness. Birds are everywhere, tweeting and flitting around the campsites and nests are cushioned in the arms of the many trees surrounding the area. Several walk trails have been mapped and I am determined to do at least one of them. Sunset comes and Michael is setting up his cameras for the big event – a truly spectacular experience that goes down particularly well with a glass of red wine.

Rock on Devils Slide

Trees on Devils Slide

Our second day in the area and we have a wonderful surprise. Our son Clinton, grandson Noah and daughter-in-law Tammy have taken a weekend road-trip and ended up in a B and B near Mt Barker. We decide to catch up at the Porongorup ranges local shop and then move down the road to attempt a walking trail called the Devils slide. The Poronogups are not as awe inspiring as the Stirlings, really pretty - softer, foliage and gentle slopes rather than craggy outcrops chiselled into the mountain sides. Noah my gorgeous grandson is bundled into his carrying pouch on Daddy’s tummy as we start the long meander up the mountain side (or crawl up if you were me). I am really out of shape, and generally the whole holiday is making me fatter not fitter so I figure this was good for me. I am trailing the gang in just a few minutes, stopping often to catch my breath but pushing on to the halfway mark and back down again. Back at the store after a triumphant Michael has conquered summit of said mountain (albeit with Clinton laughing at how slowly), we sit in the ambient atmosphere of the quaint coffee shop just feeling good. Great Day!

Daytrip through the Interior

Our next foray is a trip into the bowels of the rugged red ranges. The day is blustery and constant drizzle sees the ground caking our shoes in a thick terracotta loam. That aside the scenery was spectacular. 

Stirling Range Vista

Talyuberlup Peak

Mt Magog

    

RIP my friend

The Stirlings will forever be in my memory as the place where we heard that our dog Beau was dying of cancer. It has coloured my time in this amazing environment as tragedy often does. Dogs are gifts I think, given to us for a short period of time to make our lives better. They love us unconditionally and expect nothing. Our little boy was well loved and cared for by our entire family – my daughter having the privilege of being his carer whilst we travelled. We contemplated going back and struggled with not being there in his last days. Anyone who has a dog will understand that this is just as hard as losing any human family member. 

RIP my little one!

My doggy Beau

Denmark Rocks!

Denmark houses some of the greatest scenic spots I have ever seen in WA. Venturing down Williams Bay Rd and Ocean Beach Rd we found lots of perfect coves with craggy rock fishing spots jutting out into the ocean – neat little surfing bays with perfect oceanic views from multiple spots all ending in the most unspoiled beach outlooks with gorgeous walks all-round, teeming with fish and birdlife. All I am going to do today is let the photos do the talking. Even when the weather isn't great it is spectacular. Hope you enjoy my view!

A Little Too Cosy

Well peeps. Here we are on Easter Sunday still in Cosy Corner listening to Arcade Fire and Pete Murray on the Bose system. Michael is sorting out his rusty tackle and preparing his rod for a few rounds on the morrow. Starting to really feel the itchy feet pulling me towards the SA border and the map books are on the table ready to plot our path. 

The Kayak has been put to good use catching fish especially on Good Friday where Michael was instructed to bring back enough Snapper and Whiting for fish and chips in the evening. He had a skip in his step and suicidal fish on the brain as he prepared to muster the great ones from the ocean. The excitement was palpable as he eagerly rallied the mindset needed to take him into battle.

One must have incredible patience watching Michael preparing to take on the deep blue. Everything has a place and everything is arranged in minute detail. Just like the soldier going out to combat, he arms himself with a plethora of tools to do the job whilst I the good little wifey must pack a lunch to keep up the warriors strength and stand by the ocean waving him off into the deep blue. It is very amusing especially as the first thing that happened was a big wave swept the kayak off the beach before he could finish provisioning. Along with the wayward kayak went one kayak shoe and a lonely 3 buck thong. Both are sucked into the sea while Michael, hands waving anxiously, scans the ocean for his precious possessions.  Before you know it, he’d jumped into the Kayak and was madly paddling back and forth looking for what was his. The Kayak shoe never surfaced but the thong did. He had unwittingly made his sacrifice to the sea gods with the shoe and had now to regain his dignity by sticking to the original plan to murder some fish. Arriving back at the beach bedraggled and soaked he resumed his preparations with more than a few wary glances behind him.

In the meantime like a scene from a romance novel a number of bare breasted men with long tightly curled hair emerged from a bush track, some leading horses and some riding bare back. I really had to look twice as a gypsy woman skipped (she really did skip) onto the beach behind them with two prancing dogs. They tossed their hair with abandon (girls and boys alike) and flashed their pearly whites as they paraded down the beach. What a diverting sight for the backpacker bikini girls frolicking in the cold water trying to attract their attention. Well, after that surreal distraction it was back to camp for me and a long day of doing not a lot. Although unsuccessful with Snapper and Whiting, Michael did come back with about 15 Herring and filleted enough for a beautiful dinner. The contest won he rounded out the day with a well-deserved beer - nourishment for his not so hairy one pack.

Saturday we took a quick trip to Denmark for what the locals called the ‘Best Market’ in the South West (JOKE). Same old, same old as every local market minus fresh produce but the place was heaving with people down for the Easter Weekend. I hated every moment of it. Felt choked by the lack of space surrounding me.  Give me a sleepy town and rolling countryside anytime. We visited some local galleries but found nothing that indicated any talent before lunching in a local café. Now that was excellent. I think we have discovered what Denmark is really about. Food and wine.

What is with personal space? I am sure many people just don’t understand the concept or maybe they are so full of themselves, they feel they are gifting you with their presence. For example our next door neighbour felt so uncomfortable with the Boorish caravanner a few sites up, Big Trev they felt they had to sneak out at the crack of dawn to get away without interrogation.  Thankfully Michael’s inimitable style of polite ignoring everyone has worked to our advantage. The ill-mannered really can’t hang around too long when replies are one syllable. Even boorish prats get the message after a while. We had a lovely evening last night though with the couple next door who were simply delightful.  So back to Cosy Corner. Getting a bit too cosy me thinks.  Too many people know our names thanks to nosy Trev. So onwards come Tuesday or Wednesday to Mt Barker and beyond. South Australia here we come!

 

Snug as a Bug

Cosy Corner

Sunset at Cosy Beach

Drove yesterday 100 kms down the road to a gorgeous little beach site called Cosy Corner East, 30 kms west of Albany. And cosy it is. Sheltered in a little nook behind a bank of Tea Trees our van is snug as a bug. The site is free so we are here for a few weeks to work, play and generally have some fun. 

The beach here is gorgeous but swimming looks a little dangerous. Rips abound and surf is up. Michael is determined to take the kayak out into the bay to chase any fish that happen to be lurking nearby. I made him buy a life vest though, for my peace of mind as he tends to wander a fair way and the waves are pretty full on as evening closes in.

Cosy Beach

Shelley Beach Salmon Run

The Albany locals are a friendly bunch and the other caravanners at our site are lovely. Quite enjoying the camaraderie along with the hints and tips the hard core Grey Nomads dish out for free.  Even sharing a little fish here and there (well they are sharing with us as we just haven’t caught anything big enough to share).

Wind Farm at Albany

Mind you, I just don’t have any more superlatives for the travel log. I feel like I have visited so many beautiful places in the last month and haven’t got the words left to describe the incredible scenery around this beautiful small town. Albany is a really well-kept secret! Having lived in WA my whole life I am ashamed to say I had no expectations for anything but a pass through and yet I’ve found so much more.  The stand out in this area is the spectacular coast line. Mile and miles of bays with long sandy white beaches, huge granite rock-faces worn down by wind and sea, natural geographic anomalies such as ‘the gap’ and the alien like silhouettes of the Wind Farm. The crystal clear aquamarine water is dotted with distinctive small islands and interspersed with reef teeming with marine life. The salmon is running along with the fishermen to catch the little suckers.

Instead of fishing for fish I am fishing for images. 

The Gap

Michael is teaching me the basics of good photography which is helping me to understand how to capture the image I really want. I’m not doing too bad thankfully. Hope you are enjoying the ones that I post.

Michael at The Gap

We are hitting the four week full time travelling mark of our journey. Yes we have been living in the van for 6 months and have been out for two - three weeks at a time here or there but now this is our life. I must say that this week I am feeling a little adrift and missing my family and friends like mad. Michael is in his element as king of the outdoor life and just loves everything about our situation, especially the free camping bit. I think given a choice he would do it forever.

I on the other hand have always needed a secure base surrounded by friends and family. I am enjoying having no housework, no bills and the freedom to do whatever I like in a huge variety of gorgeous locations and I am not complaining by any means. I think I just need to figure out what comes next and soon, so I don’t go nuts.  Work has been such a huge part of my life and one that I enjoyed. Having now not worked full time for six months, I can sense the slop up top atrophying. I can feel a business plan coming on me thinks and maybe a course or two to help keep me compos mentis!  This perception that I am starting again is kind of exciting and also kind of scary at my tender age. This is how all Sea Changers must feel I think.  Oh well, I will ponder some more in my idyll and let you know how I go.

Au revoir for now.