Denmark Rocks!

Denmark houses some of the greatest scenic spots I have ever seen in WA. Venturing down Williams Bay Rd and Ocean Beach Rd we found lots of perfect coves with craggy rock fishing spots jutting out into the ocean – neat little surfing bays with perfect oceanic views from multiple spots all ending in the most unspoiled beach outlooks with gorgeous walks all-round, teeming with fish and birdlife. All I am going to do today is let the photos do the talking. Even when the weather isn't great it is spectacular. Hope you enjoy my view!

A Little Too Cosy

Well peeps. Here we are on Easter Sunday still in Cosy Corner listening to Arcade Fire and Pete Murray on the Bose system. Michael is sorting out his rusty tackle and preparing his rod for a few rounds on the morrow. Starting to really feel the itchy feet pulling me towards the SA border and the map books are on the table ready to plot our path. 

The Kayak has been put to good use catching fish especially on Good Friday where Michael was instructed to bring back enough Snapper and Whiting for fish and chips in the evening. He had a skip in his step and suicidal fish on the brain as he prepared to muster the great ones from the ocean. The excitement was palpable as he eagerly rallied the mindset needed to take him into battle.

One must have incredible patience watching Michael preparing to take on the deep blue. Everything has a place and everything is arranged in minute detail. Just like the soldier going out to combat, he arms himself with a plethora of tools to do the job whilst I the good little wifey must pack a lunch to keep up the warriors strength and stand by the ocean waving him off into the deep blue. It is very amusing especially as the first thing that happened was a big wave swept the kayak off the beach before he could finish provisioning. Along with the wayward kayak went one kayak shoe and a lonely 3 buck thong. Both are sucked into the sea while Michael, hands waving anxiously, scans the ocean for his precious possessions.  Before you know it, he’d jumped into the Kayak and was madly paddling back and forth looking for what was his. The Kayak shoe never surfaced but the thong did. He had unwittingly made his sacrifice to the sea gods with the shoe and had now to regain his dignity by sticking to the original plan to murder some fish. Arriving back at the beach bedraggled and soaked he resumed his preparations with more than a few wary glances behind him.

In the meantime like a scene from a romance novel a number of bare breasted men with long tightly curled hair emerged from a bush track, some leading horses and some riding bare back. I really had to look twice as a gypsy woman skipped (she really did skip) onto the beach behind them with two prancing dogs. They tossed their hair with abandon (girls and boys alike) and flashed their pearly whites as they paraded down the beach. What a diverting sight for the backpacker bikini girls frolicking in the cold water trying to attract their attention. Well, after that surreal distraction it was back to camp for me and a long day of doing not a lot. Although unsuccessful with Snapper and Whiting, Michael did come back with about 15 Herring and filleted enough for a beautiful dinner. The contest won he rounded out the day with a well-deserved beer - nourishment for his not so hairy one pack.

Saturday we took a quick trip to Denmark for what the locals called the ‘Best Market’ in the South West (JOKE). Same old, same old as every local market minus fresh produce but the place was heaving with people down for the Easter Weekend. I hated every moment of it. Felt choked by the lack of space surrounding me.  Give me a sleepy town and rolling countryside anytime. We visited some local galleries but found nothing that indicated any talent before lunching in a local café. Now that was excellent. I think we have discovered what Denmark is really about. Food and wine.

What is with personal space? I am sure many people just don’t understand the concept or maybe they are so full of themselves, they feel they are gifting you with their presence. For example our next door neighbour felt so uncomfortable with the Boorish caravanner a few sites up, Big Trev they felt they had to sneak out at the crack of dawn to get away without interrogation.  Thankfully Michael’s inimitable style of polite ignoring everyone has worked to our advantage. The ill-mannered really can’t hang around too long when replies are one syllable. Even boorish prats get the message after a while. We had a lovely evening last night though with the couple next door who were simply delightful.  So back to Cosy Corner. Getting a bit too cosy me thinks.  Too many people know our names thanks to nosy Trev. So onwards come Tuesday or Wednesday to Mt Barker and beyond. South Australia here we come!

 

Snug as a Bug

Cosy Corner

Sunset at Cosy Beach

Drove yesterday 100 kms down the road to a gorgeous little beach site called Cosy Corner East, 30 kms west of Albany. And cosy it is. Sheltered in a little nook behind a bank of Tea Trees our van is snug as a bug. The site is free so we are here for a few weeks to work, play and generally have some fun. 

The beach here is gorgeous but swimming looks a little dangerous. Rips abound and surf is up. Michael is determined to take the kayak out into the bay to chase any fish that happen to be lurking nearby. I made him buy a life vest though, for my peace of mind as he tends to wander a fair way and the waves are pretty full on as evening closes in.

Cosy Beach

Shelley Beach Salmon Run

The Albany locals are a friendly bunch and the other caravanners at our site are lovely. Quite enjoying the camaraderie along with the hints and tips the hard core Grey Nomads dish out for free.  Even sharing a little fish here and there (well they are sharing with us as we just haven’t caught anything big enough to share).

Wind Farm at Albany

Mind you, I just don’t have any more superlatives for the travel log. I feel like I have visited so many beautiful places in the last month and haven’t got the words left to describe the incredible scenery around this beautiful small town. Albany is a really well-kept secret! Having lived in WA my whole life I am ashamed to say I had no expectations for anything but a pass through and yet I’ve found so much more.  The stand out in this area is the spectacular coast line. Mile and miles of bays with long sandy white beaches, huge granite rock-faces worn down by wind and sea, natural geographic anomalies such as ‘the gap’ and the alien like silhouettes of the Wind Farm. The crystal clear aquamarine water is dotted with distinctive small islands and interspersed with reef teeming with marine life. The salmon is running along with the fishermen to catch the little suckers.

Instead of fishing for fish I am fishing for images. 

The Gap

Michael is teaching me the basics of good photography which is helping me to understand how to capture the image I really want. I’m not doing too bad thankfully. Hope you are enjoying the ones that I post.

Michael at The Gap

We are hitting the four week full time travelling mark of our journey. Yes we have been living in the van for 6 months and have been out for two - three weeks at a time here or there but now this is our life. I must say that this week I am feeling a little adrift and missing my family and friends like mad. Michael is in his element as king of the outdoor life and just loves everything about our situation, especially the free camping bit. I think given a choice he would do it forever.

I on the other hand have always needed a secure base surrounded by friends and family. I am enjoying having no housework, no bills and the freedom to do whatever I like in a huge variety of gorgeous locations and I am not complaining by any means. I think I just need to figure out what comes next and soon, so I don’t go nuts.  Work has been such a huge part of my life and one that I enjoyed. Having now not worked full time for six months, I can sense the slop up top atrophying. I can feel a business plan coming on me thinks and maybe a course or two to help keep me compos mentis!  This perception that I am starting again is kind of exciting and also kind of scary at my tender age. This is how all Sea Changers must feel I think.  Oh well, I will ponder some more in my idyll and let you know how I go.

Au revoir for now.

Walpole Adventure

It started with a kiss. Never thought it would come to this! Nah. Just kidding. It started with a day, and ended up being 6 of the little darlings. Walpole is just too relaxing, too picturesque and too goddamn easy to play in. 

Sandy Beach Walk Trail

Maisie the Kookaburra

To start with we parked the van in
a place called Rest Point, right next to the Walpole/Nornalup Inlet. The water is calm and very conducive to a handy Kayak or two which of course means Michael is out as much as possible playing captain and fishing for dear life. The area is laden with wildlife. Kookuburras, Crows and Pelicans alike stand around waiting for the good camper to take pictures of their ‘birdly goodliness’. They are the perfect models, staying still for hours, luring in the amateur photographer with their model good looks waiting for a treat or ten.

Walk trails around here are very well done. Obviously meant for tourists it doesn’t feel like a tourist sausage where you are forced to observe everything the same way as everyone else. This is indicative of the whole Walpole area. Kudos to the design team.

Rest Point

Rest Point

Swarbrick Artloop

Over the course of a few days, we have kayaked, fished, walked, had lovely meals in quaint restaurants and visited any number of natural eco-systems in their prime. Our first outing from the park included a visit to Swarbrick Artloop where sculptures intertwine with nature in an arty display of form with no function.

 From there it was on to Fernbrook Falls via a little used sand track called Angove Road (very liberal use of the term Road). This proved to be a little bit of adventure and a completely fun experience. We ended up spotting a range of colourful fauna including a lovely little orange toadstool and sand plain favourites

Toadstool on Angove

‘Banksias’ in flower. Farms are hidden in golden valleys nestled in harmony with tree farms and dotted with conservation areas. Kangaroos dance along on gravel and there isn’t a car in sight. This is biodiversity at its best and in harmony with humans for once.

Fernbrook falls although not running at this moment is a real treat. Gorgeous rock pools with glimmering red and orange undertones make you want to run your fingers through the puddles.

Fernbrook Falls

Trees of course surround this textural site adding a rough edge to the deep muted warmth of the stones beneath. I can imagine the lone aboriginal with his spear drinking from the clear waters as it trickles under the bridge and through the drop.

The area surrounding the pool behind the falls seems sentient, waiting maybe for the rain to fall and winter to fill its coffers? I make a note to come back a little later in the year to witness this spectacle. Rowell’s Pool further on is so tranquil Michael and I nearly fell asleep, drugged by its’ meditative atmosphere. This spot is ideal for campers out for Kayaking in the winter months.

Michael on Mt Frankland Summit

Mt Frankland was the next destination and what a place to go. We climbed the Class 4 Summit trail, which is pretty much vertical in some places, up a steep granite covered cliff face surrounded by Karri trees and awesome panoramic vignettes.

I am not the fittest person and neither is Michael but a little huffing and puffing never hurt anyone (ok, just a little). Our reward was the spectacular view and the pride of actually making it. Well worth the effort. We finished the day with a glass or two of local (Geographe, WA) Sav Blanc Sem (2012 Dragonfly) that was so yummy and reasonably priced I bought another bottle. Highly recommended.

Next day we went to the king maker for this visit –Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk. This incredible structure, built 40 metres above the ground in the middle of the ancient Tingle Tree Forest is a highlight for anyone. Even those like me who are afraid of heights. It did sway and bounce a little which made for some interesting faces if anyone cared to observe but I managed to get from platform to platform with nary a faint.

Grandma Tingle

Tingle Tent

To be appreciated though these trees need an up close and personal view and this we did via the gorgeous Ancient Empire walk through the old Giant Tingle trees. This was the highlight of my visit. The incredible bulbous hollowed out trunks of these unique trees bring out the little child in me. The roots and trunks take on characters from story books and the peaceful tranquillity of the boardwalk lures me from one hidey hole to another. 

This is a place I could spend time in introspective contemplation, writing and creating art works. Michael and I have both said we will come back for more in the future.  Extraordinary is too mild a term for places like this. I just wish more people appreciated its beauty instead of rushing through just to say they were there.

To finish this little ditty, Michael and I had fun playing in the Discovery Centre attached to the Tree Top Walk and completed our day taking a picture in the Kiddy car. Told you it brought out the little child in us!

Michael playing in car

These Boots Are Made for Walking

Windy Harbour

After leaving Glen Mervyn Dam we headed for Windy Harbour in WA’s South West. Renowned for good fishing and a scenic coast line it was a must for our itinerary. On the road down, the landscape can only be described as rural nirvana. Gorgeous farmland with cows, sheep and golden pastures abound. Light filters through stormy clouds as the road gives way to the tall trees we have come to know and love. To cap the experience, just out of Donnybrook, we came across a collection of antique trucks lined up like old soldiers with full regalia waiting in line for inspection. Picture book perfect!

Windy Harbour Campground

An afternoon at Manjimup provided a much needed pit stop to fill up on fuel and food and then on to Pemberton for the night. The next morning provided a right old soaking as we packed up for the last leg to Windy Harbour. True to its’ name Windy Harbour was very, very windy. It reminded me very much of my childhood in Geraldton where wind was the prevailing mode of all seasons. Just don’t bother with the hair because it's going to stick out no matter what. I truly look like the 50 year old version of a grommet.

The wind was howling, waves were crashing and the caravan park just a barely adequate stop. If possible I would have free camped but alas no go. But the coast line here is magnificent and well worth a day or two.

Rocks at Windy

Michael on the Rocks

Michael couldn’t wait to get out the rod and start fishing.  I just donned the new hikers and started walking on the beach. For over two hours I could not stop. It was invigorating and inspiring. Rocks, lathed smooth from continual buffeting, stormy skies and roaring whitecaps create eye catching visual extracts with new twists beyond every corner. Finally as the sun closed it’s door on the day I turned for home just in time to catch my intrepid fisherman husband catching the smallest fish on earth. Oh well. We can’t have it all!

In the morning we took the car up to Pt D’Entrecasteaux and Salmon Beach to complete the Windy

experience. All I can say is wow! Jagged rocks, windswept plains and island vistas with hovering rainbows captured our imaginations. The beaches here are just magnificent, but the stars are the cliffs themselves with incredible rock formations formed by unforgiving winds and driving seas. The sand plain foliage is incredibly dense, salted with subtle colours that lean towards the prevailing windswept landscape. Hardy succulents stand out vividly in this rugged environment and grow in unexpected places.
I can only imagine how difficult it would have been for the intrepid explorer to gain any traction in this impermeable mass. The Australian landscape just takes my breath away. How lucky are we!

Cliffs at Pt D'Entrecasteaux

Salmon Beach